[quote=“Andy DiGiusto, post:58, topic:10210, username:Andy_DiGiusto”]
000 Brake Cylinder Hone. Soak the stones and the caliper in cutting oil and get to work.
In my case I did 10 seconds honing, clean, re-oil, then an
[/quote] You could send it out to be sleeved. I’ve done that on unobtainable master cylinders. About $300.
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Many years ago we had to bore out an old set of Mac minarelli calipers to a slightly larger piston. Took some research to find a piston slightly larger. Think it was from a bike or car caliper. New pistons and cups and rebored to fit.
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Thanks for the ideas! I’ll consider them for sure if it still leaks after the first test!
Anyways, exciting news on the engine front! Suitcase engine arrived!
What is a suitcase engine?
1)A highly tuned engine (check)
2) hand-delivered by said tuner or trusted person (check)
3) It’s intended to go back into its case every time after use (not really, but let’s pretend).
4) Bonus points if it gets flown in from Italy directly (check).
Just picked it up at LAX, will soon get it installed. Time is ticking
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This is a painful tease…
It’s like an unboxing video. Milk it hard!
Koene tuned vortex vr98?
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I know, that would have been the perfect option! I took a little bit of a license here, same period but different brand as I was able to find a time capsule, tuned engine with no run time on it…pics soon 
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I swear my VR98 has been giving me the stink eye every time I leave the house. This topic is not helping 
I might still have brake calipers if you get stuck.
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Thanks James! I was actually able to get to the bottom of this…after getting them to work and testing them (no leaks!) I got really suspicious about the mounting plate…
It just didn’t look right even if it was anodized the same color as the cassettes…looked too flimsy and unrefined for OTK standards…come to find out, that is a Tony Extreme caliper, with different mounting bolt pattern as they mount on the cassette. Clearly prior owner had an issue and swapped calipers with a different set he had available, rigging something up. Too dangerous for my liking.
I contacted somebody online from a vintage owner group on FB and got a set of calipers that have the correct bolt pattern. Arrived just yesterday from Denmark, fits perfectly.
Get it going again, asap! Or I’ll pry it from your hands for this project!
I went with Iame, it’s a “wrong” pairing for a replica, but I couldn’t say no
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Very nice. Trick IAME rod there too.
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There are some tricks in this thing. Head is also not a TT37 (it’s from a Sirio, modded)
Italian descent, French tuning, restored by Pippo S. engines out of Italy, one of the most active builders of these engines…credit is due! Quality work
Should have a little over 28hp in its FA setup, super FA with 30mm carb will be next step up, as soon as I can find an IBEA guillotine carb
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Do you want a 27mm IBEA slide carb? I have one sitting in my garage in SoCal. I can bring it to Apex tomorrow.
I’ll be at Apex too tomorrow with the other karts! If it’s not too much of an inconvenience, bring it!
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Ok alignment time. Dear OTK gurus…could you please enlighten me?
Kart came with 4 position eccentric pills, I believe upper and lower arrow facing forward is baseline.
When I do that, I end up with 4 degrees of POSITIVE camber (2 each side), which I find strange.
If I want to take camber out and go towards negative (I’m used to -2 each side) I can only go:
0
-10 (5 each side)
-12 (6 each side)
then other combos make no sense as they go outside measurable range
Could it be that the baseline is actually ok as the old chassis require more positive camber than modern ones because the effective camber (when loaded) goes more negative than what we are used today?
(chassis and spindles are straight, verified)
I’m leaning towards using baseline and then read tires to see what’s really happening…any other idea or suggestion?
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Possible pills need to be swapped? Bottom to top, and top to bottom?
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Good theory, but they are exactly the same. That’s not the “issue” here but thanks, that would have been a logical explanation!
I just received a text on this one so I’m sharing it here for everybody.
Factory setting is both arrows forward.
Doing that on these chassis, resulted in a 2 degrees positive camber each side when the chassis was new. It flexed in a way that it needed that. With time, the chassis will relax and slowly get to 2 degrees negative each side, which will continue working. So the advice is to leave it alone and let it work itself out, only intervene for wet setups.
So apparently, this is completely normal. It just means my chassis has not been used much.
Go figure…
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