I just use this one in the 15 degree. You need the longer steering wheel bolts to make it work and even that cockeyes them a little. Not perfect but I can’t stand the stock position.
Agreed this does help. I have both the 10* and the 15* just depends on what the chassis manufacturer has for a steering hub and if it has any angle built into it by default.
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Wanted to try the 10. I used the 15 with the standard Otk hub. But now I have the 15 with an angled hub as well. Really liking that.
You can cheat without buying the 10* just a handful of thicker washers under the top bolts will get you there. Then if you like it buy it so it’s not so half baked 
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I’ve already blown out the bottom of one seat so trying to prevent a 2nd but I’ll get measurements today when I get home.
Would you recommend the 10* or the 15* with the stock OTK hub?
Sanity check your hub and see if it has any built-in angle. Depending on what year your kart is OTK started shipping them with a slightly angled hub from factory.
If straight 15*. If built in angle 10* IMO.
Again, you can cheat this before buying and stacking some washers under the top bolts to see if you even like it before buy a $25 piece of aluminum. I’ll measure my 15* version and give you an idea of how many washers to stack to get a similar effect.
Around 1/2" of spacers under the top bolts would get you 15* and 5/16" to 3/8" gets you close to 10*.
IDK about seats being cheap (OK to be fair it’s me that’s cheap) but I’ve had good results riveting a thin piece of steel to the base. Although you could just as easily add a sacrificial layer of fiberglas too, but you don’t get the sparks.
Of course you have to be careful with exit kerbs especially because if the seat grounds out you no longer have rear traction.
Aren’t* (20 things to post)
I was hoping he meant aren’t, because $200+ seemed pretty steep to me 
I’ve also got a little onboard if that helps show the relation to my knees and arms in the seat. I don’t know if i am too close to the steering wheel or not.
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Yea hard to tell. I see what you mean on hitting your knees. Maybe we can get your seat back and lower to get some more room. 
Let’s get a picture of your setup to look closer. I know some taller drivers ditch the footrest all together and brace against the frame rail to gain those extra inches.
It’s hard to see, but to me it looks like you are spending more time pulling down on the wheel with your inside hand versus pushing with the outside hand. Your hands look very reactive. You always want to be pushing (or so I’ve been told). This will help with maintaining a good seating position and holding your hands more still on the wheel. Probably an 80/20 split of pushing on the wheel with one hand and slightly pulling with the other.
As I get tired I tend to start bicep driving and it really hurts my consistence and performance. Straightening my arms out really helped. It took some power out of my biceps and forces me to use my shoulders and triceps. This allows me to “push” the kart where I want to go and have more rock steady hands. If you have ever ridden a motorcycle it’s sort of similar where you lean and push into the bars with your inside hand to steer (opposite of a kart where we want to push with the outside hand).
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I would definitely be in favor of tossing the heel rest. I’ll send my set-up after work but I just made it quite a bit higher to test it out for one day, so it’s a little more elevated than normal. (but again i found it more comfortable last session) But I’m 100% willing to try anything to get the fit right with lower CG. I have a super old seat on right now and a brand new OTK seat in storage i’m wanting to mount soon. But i don’t want to mount it until I find a position i like.
As far as hands i’ve always been super handsy/pull-y on the wheel. I’ll even occasionally slide my inside hand up the wheel to have more control of my pulling hand. I’ve never really thought anything of it though. Probably something i need to look into and fix
Find some decent onboard and check out the posture of the top guys. They are rock steady with the hands, very minimal amounts of steering angle, and almost no movement in the seat.
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The angled steering hub will help keep the hands from pulling and will force them to push more.
I agree, you are pulling the wheel it looks like, and then any bump or imperfection or curb tries to yank the wheel from you. Pushing the wheel will fix that.
Was one of my worse driving habits to break from slinging dirt oval stuff.
I had to force myself one day to drive one-handed only using my outside hand to steer. I started slow and built speed making sure I was always under control and kept pushing the limit.
Honestly had no idea. Will definitely implement this next session. Is that kart specific? Because every vehicle i’ve raced i’ve been a pull driver with pretty decent success.
I used to race a little dirt as well. Not competitively but I drove my dads cars for fun. And then I was pretty into competitive dirt in iRacing. as well as asphalt oval. Might be where it stems from
Absolutely a kart thing. The kart relies on weight transfer to work. Your body is like 50% of the ballast in the vehicle. Your posture and everything else you do in the seat has an affect on how the kart handles.
A kart needs to unload the inside rear wheel to corner properly. It does this by tipping or transferring weight through the seat into the rear axle/tires. If you aren’t pushing your weight into the seat, that weight isn’t getting transferred effectively.
Plus the kart doesn’t have power steering of course, so it has very heavy steering and needs you to have a strong base with your arms and upper body to keep the wheel from bouncing around in your hands.
You should drive with your shoulders, not your biceps. Less leverage, more control. Easier to drive smooth and settle the hands down. All that also affects the kart’s handling.
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I really think you will not only see driving improvements, but handling as well.
As TJ mentioned you are the soft squishy thing moving around in the seat. The more rigid you can make yourself normally means more better. You should also find you need less steering input to turn the kart as it is transferring weight better. It will become less of turning and more of pushing the wheel and point it where you want to go.
Also, we need to work on those slightly floppy knees. Hopefully straightening them out will help as well.
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